I am aware that Summer is coming to a close and we are all experiencing the relatively slow but definite wardrobe transition. However, I wanted to take the opportunity of the final days of warmth to talk about a Summer piece that I had made when I was back home (Singapore).
I was (am) always immersed with the idea of unstructured tailoring. The term unstructured tailoring was popularized by Neapolitan tailoring. It’s mainly focus on soft structures, often involving little or no shoulder padding, a very light canvasing and Spalla Camicia (shirt sleeve shoulder). However, up to then, I have yet to own a completely unstructured jacket. I own several jackets with no shoulder padding but these jackets still possess a rather heavy canvas that fails to provide the nonchalance of unstructured tailoring.
The fabric for the jacket is a slubbly wool-linen medium blue.
With the exception of a 1/4 lining (sleeves and shoulders), this jacket is truly unstructured. It does not possess a shoulder padding or canvas, making this jacket incredibly easy to pair casually. Due to its lack of shoulder padding I made the conscious decision to slightly reduce the shoulder width of this jacket, emulating a natural shoulder look.
I also intended for this jacket to look like a shirt-jacket, resembling a cardigan or casual blazer. With that in mind, I opt for a fuller cut with this jacket – slightly lower (and bigger) armholes, fuller chest, arms and waist. Such a cut is foreign to me, especially considering my favouritism for a substantially slimmer jacket. Admittedly, I am starting to prefer a fuller cut. It looks cleaner when the jacket is buttoned and incredibly more comfortable, I can actually play tennis in this jacket.
I am usually wearing this jacket casually, like say a white scoop neck shirt with high waisted jeans and loafers. But I also wanted to show that an unstructured jacket can be paired formally.
In this ensemble there’s a consistency of blue shades, light blue shirt as its less formal than white, unlined navy suede string loafers, blue butterfly pocket square, and a red and blue stripe tie. The beige linen trousers is a great finishing touch to the outfit. Instead of white trousers, which gets easily stained and occasionally ostentatious, the beige subdues the blue hues appropriately by creating a seamless colour contrast.
If you are getting a suit, it probably helps that it contains some form a structure to adhere to it’s formal purpose. However, for a sports coat, it definitely more beneficial to get an unstructured or one with little structure. This allows you to transition the jacket within both realms, casual and formal, smoothly.
This jacket has become one of my favourite jackets for its ability to be worn casually and its notch lapels, as most of my suit jackets are in peaks. It’s just unfortunate that I would have to hang this jacket up soon to welcome the colder temperatures.