Packing Light On Tailoring

I went back to Singapore for the Summer and decided to pack extremely light, particularly on the tailoring aspect. So light that I only brought three tailored jackets:

  • Tobacco Linen-Wool linen Suit (For Day 1 of my brother’s wedding)
  • Blue Windowpane Linen-Wool Jacket (To add a little statement if necessary)
  • Navy Double Breasted Hopsack Jacket (To be mainly worn casually over linen T-Shirts, scoop neck shirts and denim)

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My style revolves heavily around tailored garments but I learnt my lesson last Summer, that it’s nearly impossible to stay casually tailored everyday. Hence, only three jackets were brought.

I did, however, bring a lot of high rise trousers. To combat the barely bearable tropical humidity, I tend to wear my dress trousers with velvet slippers and slightly oversized T-Shirts tucked in or linen trousers with band collar shirts. Such a combination, is, in my opinion, a great way to stay tailored in the heat.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

SuitSupply’s New Womens Wear Line Is Simply Amazing

SuitSupply just released launched their women’s wear line, SuiStudio, and it is… PHENOMENAL!

Of course, this is from the perspective of a male but I geniunely like their collection. What initially comes to mind, at least from the catalogue photos, are softly tailored garments in neutral colours, interesting textures and a pronounced silhouette.

The suit model that particularly caught my attention was the Cameron Double Breasted. It is rather aggressive with it’s detailing, wide lapels and brass buttons, but it’s sharp taper allows the suit to exude a sense of femininity without appearing like a “boyfriend” suit. From my understanding/experience, it is rather challenging to find the optimal balance on a double breasted jacket to accommodate a female’s chest. But, the suits seem to drape extremely well on the female models, especially around the chest.

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Their Palermo model, whose jacket is characterized by it’s wide peak lapels and single breasted closure, is also just as flattering. Additionally, you have the potentiality of purchasing the matching “Shorts” version, perfect for more casual work settings, or the “Skirt” iteration to retain it’s formality.

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SuiStudio also offers outerwear, which are very minimalistic in design, and evening wear. The latter is styled incredibly sensual with garments such as a low cut cleavage revealing top. I think such a pairing is very sexy/attractive and does not appear too provocative.

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Like their menswear line, they use fabrics from recognizable mills (Ferla, VBC, Solbiati etc.) but their products are still Made in China. If it’s any consolation, SuitSupply’s prices are still worth every penny and I do not expect any inferior manufacturing with SuiStudio.

Unfortunately, e-commerce is currently only available in Europe and the US. However, with SuitSupply’s accelerated global growth, I wouldn’t be surprise to see a worldwide e-commerce open within the next few months.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Neapolitan Jacketing

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After acquiring one, I can finally comprehend the hype that is Eidos Napoli. The brand makes a true Neapolitan jacket that is accessible to the younger folks.

This beautiful gun club with a faint rust overcheck jacket is in Eidos’s most popular model, Ciro, that features:

  • Wider lapels
  • A fish mouth opening between the lapel and collar
  • Spalla Camicia (Pleated Shoulders)
  • Barchetta Chest Pocket
  • 3/2 Roll
  • Lowered button stance
  • Substantially open quarters
  • No Shoulder padding

This jacket is one of the most comfortable jackets I have ever put on. It feels more like a shirt, akin to a second skin, as opposed to a jacket. The fabric, a wool-cashmere blend, drapes ridiculously well and is light enough to be worn for three seasons, Fall, Winter and Spring.

The brown base hue makes it easy to pair with a variety of colours and garments. A few pairings in mind that I am particularly excited to attempt are grey flannel trousers, white shirt and a brown knitted tie, a cream turtleneck with brown corduroys, or something as simple as jeans with an oxford shirt. Unfortunately, such experimenting would have to wait till the temperatures drop again. Well, here’s to looking forward to the colder months.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Odd Three Piece

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An “Odd Three Piece” is a term to describe an ensemble using different or un-matching cloths for it’s trousers, waistcoat and jacket. As clearly illustrated above, the trousers is a charcoal birdseye cloth, the waistcoat a blue tweed houndstooth and the jacket a grey wool Guabello cloth. Furthermore, a blue striped spread collar shirt and herringbone socks were used to add a little visual interest to the outfit’s entirety. An “Odd Three Piece” is a favourable method for individuals seeking to implement a little more creativity to their business casual attire.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

What I Wear For School

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Don’t be fooled by my Instagram feed, I am not in a suit jacket and shirt everyday.

Most days, particularly school days, I lean towards my casual wardrobe. I sincerely believe that my tailored/formal wardrobe is still a work in progress. Currently, I have a preference for Neapolitan tailoring, namely soft shoulders, broader lapels, pleated shoulders etc. I am very comfortable, both physically and mentally, with such, but that might change in the subsequent years as one’s preference and lifestyle are consistently subjected to gradual refinement.

However, I do feel that my casual wardrobe is quite established. I draw a lot of inspiration from Ivy League, Japanese and Korean fashion. One aspect I absolutely love (and appreciate) about Korean fashion is their ability to effortlessly mix and match formal patterns, such as pinstripes, or designs with casual pieces. Something that I am still attempting to solidify.

My casual ensembles typically apply the same rule of thumb as my tailored pairings, lighter colours on the top and darker colours on the bottom to create a tasteful contrast or the reverse to create a stronger and more noticeable contrast.  This is further illustrated by the image above: a medium grey turtleneck, layered under a “cookies & cream” shawl cardigan (off-white donegal) and a dark brown leather bomber jacket with a fur collar, paired with a pair of dark blue jeans and dark brown boots.

Facing Materialism

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As of late, our society, as a whole, have been entangled by the rigorous grip of marketing, consumerism and materialism. Evidently we have it reversed, it’s no longer what you do that defines you but rather what you own. We are so easily swayed by marketing efforts that we feel an indescribable innate need to buy everything an influencer showcases or make certain acquisitions to uphold a certain image.

As I mainly utilize social media platforms to share menswear content, and could potentially be considered an influencer, I am very concerned with this largely growing phenomena. I have always advocated “buy less, use more” and “quality over quantity”. However, it is never my intention to have you belief that you will be happy, fulfilled or even mildly contented if you dress or look in a certain way. Those aspects are in synchrony with your subjective perspective of life and uniquely primed personality. Happiness, or self-fulfillment, can lead to dressing well but the opposite never does.

That is why I am always partially hesitant to answer “where did you get that x from?” questions. For me, it is never about advocating a brand or it’s image but rather the underlying structural integration of garment pairing and utility.

I am going to deviate a bit by saying that I aware of my recent generic mediocracy blog posts. This was never my intention when I wanted to launch DWNS. Those types of posts are generally less time consuming and, in certain circumstances, substantially easier to write. However, I am in the midst of writing several fashion topics that loosely pertains to materialism, social prejudices to tailoring or even clothing minimalism. I am still in process of finalizing these topics as they take a ridiculous amount of time to write, my head/ideas are still in misalignment and the conjunction of these topics must present considerable symmetry. But, considering the return from my trip and the holiday season (end of exams), I have the time to organize everything and hopefully launch new content by the start of 2017. Stay tuned.

Broke My SuitSupply Virginity With The Madison

Throughout my menswear journey, I have always been told about SuitSupply. It’s a dutch company that sells mens clothing, primarily focusing on tailored wear, for an exceedingly good quality to price value.

I been thinking of pulling the SuitSupply trigger for the last 18 months or so. However, whenever I looked at their detailed size chart, I knew that I could never fit it without substantial alterations. I held off till recently, where they offered their newly implemented Madison unlined model for $429 CAD.

I have always been seeking for a navy double breasted jacket and the Madison, is arguably their most popular model. This is due to it’s theatric wide peak lapels, double breasted closure and functional patch pockets.

Furthermore, this unlined model features, well, an unlined jacket and no shoulder padding. It was essentially a true unstructured double breasted jacket.

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When I ordered it online, it arrived 3 days later in a TALL box that shocked me. In the box, the jacket was standing up straight; and that really impressed me. The shipping must have been so inconvenient… But it enables the jacket to remain rather unwrinkled.

Let’s talk about the fit. I ordered the 38L and the measurements were rather accurate. People have mentioned that SuitSupply fits rather slim. I am probably the worst model for this as I have a 9 inch drop. But from my experience with other Ready-To-Wear jackets, the Madison model is slightly slimmer, by an inch or so. Regardless, the measurements listed on the website was very accurate.

The features of the jacket is what surprised me. The jacket was incredibly light in weight, appeared rather structured even without a shoulder padding and the Spalla Camicia (pleated shoulder) was beautiful.

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I still have to send the jacket to my tailor to take in the body and lengthen the sleeves. Probably get around to it after the exam period. Once that is finalized, I should be able to upload more photos of me in it.

In the meantime, if you have any questions regarding the fit or anything Madison related, give me a shout!