Sundays

IMG_8313

Jacket: N/A \ Cargo Pants: Dockers \ Shirt: Spier & Mackay \ Double Breasted Waistcoat: IndoChino \ Tie: Brooks Brothers \ Suede Tassels: J Crew

This week’s Sundays post features a casual military inspired look. Featuring cargo khakis for extra pockets, a double breasted windowpane waistcoat, regimental stripe tie and a leather bomber jacket to combat the night chills.

How To Wear A Grey Suit Jacket

The foundation of any men’s wardrobe should consist of a navy and grey workhorse suit. The best thing about said suits is the ability to break them up into separates and create multiple combinations. However, navy suit jackets are a lot easier to wear separately compared to it’s grey counterpart. This ties in with a reader message I received recently, asking what to wear his grey suit jacket with as he found it difficult pairing it with other trousers.

If the grey is worsted or possesses a prominent sheen, I will exclusively wear it with it’s matching trousers. However I am also aware that not many of us possess a vast wardrobe and have to work with what we currently have. The evident problem with wearing grey suit jackets separately is that it often appears like you are wearing an orphan jacket – a jacket that was clearly meant to be worn with matching trousers. To avoid that, ensure that your grey suit already has blue-ish hues. What this implies is that the fabric should look a little blue under strong lightning and noticeable grey indoors. As you scroll down, the photos will further exemplify this.

When it comes to pairing any odd jacket, an option to always consider is textured grey trousers, like flannel, hopsack or wool, as they go with nearly everything. But they can often be a little repetitive and difficult to find, particularly grey hopsack. So to answer the reader’s question and to implement some creativity, here are three trouser combinations to effectively style your grey suit jacket without making it appear like you spilled Latte all over your matching trousers.

Cream Trousers

DSC_3035.jpg

Cream trousers go well with almost anything and is often overlooked as a viable choice. I feel that most men are afraid of it as it’s too light in colour and may appear too outlandish. But in actuality, it’s incredibly easy to pair. It creates a strong enough contrast with most jackets, especially darker ones, making it the cornerstone for every man’s trouser wardrobe.

DSC_3074 copy

This blue-ish grey jacket has a 3 roll 2 and spalla camicia (pleated shoulders), features that I include in most of my recent commissions. A pleated shoulder adds additional mobility and makes it feel more like a shirt than a jacket. This jacket, from a distance, looks grey, however, closer photos reveals its blue-ish tone that makes it easier to pair with separates.

DSC_3086 copy

A denim band collar shirt can also be used to dress down the jacket. However, if you were to approach the pairing of a grey jacket and cream trousers with more formality, I would instead opt for a light blue shirt and tie.

DSC_3106

Unusual Suspect: Denim Trousers

DSC_2963

These trousers are one of my wardrobe favourites because they are not as casual as denim nor are they too formal. They tread in-between the lines of formality, which is very similar to my philosophy of remaining casually tailored.

DSC_3001 copy

Even though this suit jacket is a little sheeny, the texture of the trousers blends nicely with the jacket, making it appear less like a dreaded orphan jacket. Texture is key gents.

DSC_3019 copy

The navy bengal stripe shirt adds a pleasing subtle interest in the ensemble. However, to avoid overpowering it, a simple (and essential) navy knitted tie was used to, literally, tie everything together.

DSC_3026 copy

Or Just Denim Jeans

DSC_3148 copy

Denim trousers are quite a rarity and are mostly only accessible through bespoke or made to measure offerings. However, an alternative to consider are your good old jeans. With that said, I would be cautious with this pairing and completely avoid it if your suit jacket is completely grey or exceedingly sheeny.

DSC_3221 copy

The blue-ish hues from this jacket really comes into play here by exhibiting a tonal blue shade that can be quite appealing when done appropriately. Notice here that a white shirt, blue dotted tie and blue pocket square was used. Again, attributing to the blue that is uniformly present in the ensemble.

DSC_3177 copy

Monk straps are an ideal choice to pair with jeans. They are casual enough and you wouldn’t run into the problem of experiencing a large formality disparity, like an oxford shoe usually does.

DSC_3189 copy

Again, always remember though, a suit jacket looks the best with it’s matching trousers. And if none of these looks interest you enough, you can always fall back on a pair of grey hopsack (Summer) or flannel (Winter) trousers.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

 

Sundays

IMG_8175.jpg

Jacket: Barbour \ Charcoal Scoop Neck: H&M \ Windowpane Flannel Trousers: Gap x GQ \ Boots: Johnston & Murphy

Another instalment of the Sundays series, embodying simplicity with a waxed jacket, flannel trousers and well-worn boots. This is likely the last weekend to be able to wear Fall/Winter pieces. Here’s to warmer weather!

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Sundays

Introducing Sundays, a new series on DWNS showcasing what I am wearing on that particular day.

Growing up in a Christian family, my parents instil the importance of dressing up for church. It was a sign of respect to not only the congregation, but also to God. Many years later despite my infrequent attendance, I have embodied the concept of dressing your best for the last day of the week. “Sundays” isn’t descriptive sequence, but rather it’s a weekly visual representation of my ever evolving style and the notion of being casually tailored.

IMG_8144.jpg

Navy Hopsack Jacket and Shirt: Spier & Mackay \ Grey Hopsack Trousers: Epaulet \ Chocolate Suede Tassels: Crockett & Jones 

The first instalment features me soaking up the Sun with a neutral colour palette of brown, grey and navy – a combination that never goes out of style.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Muji Linen Drawstring Trousers

For awhile now, I have been searching for a pair of higher rise casual linen pants with the intention to be worn with my casual and formal wardrobe, think loafers, button up shirts, casual sport coats, velvet slippers or scoop neck shirts. After a hard felt search, I think I finally found the perfect one.

The pair I picked up is from Muji, a Japanese retailer I exclusively buy my turtlenecks from. What I like about Muji, is it’s affordable price point and minimalistic approach to its products – no branding and simplistic designs. Their clothes also tend to run longer (sleeves, hem length) and slimmer, which is perfect for my slender body frame.

This pant is a true blue, which adds some colour to your Spring Summer wardrobe without appearing too outlandish, like a royal blue occasionally does. Here I have complied two looks, demonstrating it’s ability to be worn with casual or tailored pieces alike.

Laidback Weekends:

DSC_3907.jpg

Drawstring Linen Trousers and Grey Shawl Cardigan: Muji | White Scoop Neck: All Saints | Woven Braided Loafers: Allen Edmonds | Waxed Cotton Jacket: Barbour

DSC_3926 copy

For a casual look I like to roll up the hem more to open the option of wearing sneakers. Additionally, a shawl collar cardigan is one of those sweaters that acts as an ideal substitute for blazers. This particular grey, also from Muji, has two front pockets, allowing for more storage and alleviating the need for a bag.

DSC_3937 copy

I particularly like the weight of these trousers, they are incredibly light yet it drapes substantially well. The fit is slim but not overly so. Linen will also stretch out a little, so you don’t have to size up if it feels a little snug. This pair is in a size “XS” The inseam for all the sizes come in a standard 34″. I discovered this from trying the “S” too. Usually a 32″ inseam will achieve a perfect no-break for me but I have no intention of altering this as it gives me the liberty of rolling up the hem for casual pairings.

DSC_3950 copy

Drawstring Formality:

DSC_3822.jpg

Navy String Loafers: Sacoor Brothers | Drawstring Linen Trousers: Muji | Band Collar Blue Gingham Linen Shirt: IndoChino | Blue Wool-Linen Jacket: Local Singaporean Tailor

DSC_3813

The trousers are a mid-high rise, measuring at 11″ for size “XS”. An interesting feature that this trouser has is a drawstring. Initially when I was on the hunt for a linen pant, the drawstring was not a feature I was seeking. But after product examination, the drawstring grows on you and helps to hold the trousers up if the waist is a little loose. Alternatively, there are also belt loops if you feel like using a braided belt instead.

DSC_3778.jpg

The trouser comes in four different colours: tan, navy, light grey and this blue. I find the grey to be a little too pale and the navy a little too dark, treading on opposite ends of the formality spectrum. For it’s intended purpose, I find the blue or tan to be the easiest colours to match. But of course, before you make this decision, you need to take into consideration of your wardrobe’s prominent colour palette.

DSC_3876.jpg

A matching jacket is available as well, making it perfect for those who are seeking to acquire a casual linen suit. I contemplated upon getting the jacket but the narrow notch lapels and 3 button closure was a little too trendy for my liking. At the time of purchase, these were on sale at $49.99. It might be full price at the moment but still well worth it.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Odd Three Piece

IMG_7426.jpg

An “Odd Three Piece” is a term to describe an ensemble using different or un-matching cloths for it’s trousers, waistcoat and jacket. As clearly illustrated above, the trousers is a charcoal birdseye cloth, the waistcoat a blue tweed houndstooth and the jacket a grey wool Guabello cloth. Furthermore, a blue striped spread collar shirt and herringbone socks were used to add a little visual interest to the outfit’s entirety. An “Odd Three Piece” is a favourable method for individuals seeking to implement a little more creativity to their business casual attire.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Casual Wear: Black Leather Jacket

Being a university student, I don’t get the opportunity to wear my tailored garments as frequently as I like. From Mondays to Thursdays, you can find me dressed incorporating some form of tailored article, an OCBD, seasonal dress trousers or, my personal Spring favourite, denim with penny loafers. However, you will never spot me in a sport coat/suit jacket/blazer as wearing one to classes is simply unnecessary and, frankly, rather pretentious.

Arriving to this realization of underutilizing my tailored jackets, I have been focusing on curating my casual wardrobe, particularly the jacket department, a lot more recently. With this, I have come to appreciate the beauty of casual wear. You have the freedom to temper and experiment with different colours, patterns, and silhouettes. It is also devoid of “rules” or parameters that often exists in tailoring. Additionally, the potential of integrating pieces from your formal wardrobe to diversify your pairings is present.

One of the most crucial, yet conscious, investment I made late last year was a leather jacket. I found appeal in the double rider model and was particularly impressed with the leather’s softness when I tried it on at the All Saints store. Additionally, I like how the larger lapels, in conjunction with the shoulder epaulets, visually widens the user’s shoulders and accentuates a more masculine figure.

Although I am not a huge user of black, I am exceedingly surprised by how well this jacket fares in my brown dominated wardrobe. Call me old-fashioned, but even under the most dire of circumstances I never match brown and black together. This proved to be difficult as 90% of my shoes are brown. However, over the past few weeks, I found success with pairing it with tan suede boots, burgundy penny loafers, black wingtips or the occasional sneaker.

DSC_2583.jpg

Whilst I have attempted to pair this jacket with tailoring, it feels the most comfortable when worn with denim, of any wash. Yet, a personal favourite ensemble I have come to enjoy is one that encompasses both denim and tailoring. As illustrated below, the black leather jacket is worn with a band collar denim shirt, raw denim and a pair of black dress wingtips – encompassing the perfect “high and low” look.

IMG_7508

Jacket: All Saints \ Denim Band Collar Shirt: Frank & Oak \ Jeans: Gap \ Shoes: Mr B’s

The general consensus is to have your leather jacket fit as snug as possible, calling for sizing down. But for this All Saints Kahawa, I went with the opposite and sized up from an S to an M. Even though leather has the tendency to stretch out slightly, I thought the S was a little too tight for me. I am also too conditioned with how my tailored jackets fit and was aspiring to achieve a “fuller drape”. However, when determining your size, the most important aspect to ensure is that the jacket’s shoulders fits you. If you feel the size’s body is not as tapered as you like it, don’t worry because, contrary to what others believe, leather jackets can be altered. I personally use, like and recommend Leather T.O. Fashions. They are meticulous with their craft, quick turnaround times and are reasonably priced.

Lastly, I am going to start implementing more casual wear in my writings as I feel it is more accessible and socially accepted (although the former drastically depends on your lifestyle, social circle and a lot of other factors). I sincerely believe such will be particularly useful for guys who are still in university or seeking to start dressing with no stress.

Thanks for reading, cheers.