Packing Light On Tailoring

I went back to Singapore for the Summer and decided to pack extremely light, particularly on the tailoring aspect. So light that I only brought three tailored jackets:

  • Tobacco Linen-Wool linen Suit (For Day 1 of my brother’s wedding)
  • Blue Windowpane Linen-Wool Jacket (To add a little statement if necessary)
  • Navy Double Breasted Hopsack Jacket (To be mainly worn casually over linen T-Shirts, scoop neck shirts and denim)

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My style revolves heavily around tailored garments but I learnt my lesson last Summer, that it’s nearly impossible to stay casually tailored everyday. Hence, only three jackets were brought.

I did, however, bring a lot of high rise trousers. To combat the barely bearable tropical humidity, I tend to wear my dress trousers with velvet slippers and slightly oversized T-Shirts tucked in or linen trousers with band collar shirts. Such a combination, is, in my opinion, a great way to stay tailored in the heat.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Palewave Look

Last Summer, I read an article from one of my favourite menswear blogs titled A Tailored Version of Palewave. To summarize, Palewave describes the low contrast in an outfit that is prominent in Streetwear. The author writes about Palewave being present in tailoring and exemplifies it further with visual images.

A convenient method of tailoring pairing derives from creating a stark contrast, dark colours on the top and light on the bottom or vice versa. Achieving a complete palewave look is particularly challenging for lighter skin tones as it has a tendency of washing you out. Taking a strong interest of implementing a Palewave look, I found that creating a slight contrast with shoes is very helpful. If a tan or lighter shade of footwear was used, the entirety would look too discombobulated and resemble a costume.

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Additionally, one of the most effective ‘factors’ about a Palewave look is the ability to successfully wear a bolder jacket. If we were to use the original pairing premise of a high contrast, the jacket would appear too prominent and, arguably, excessive. What the low contrast aids here is blending the jacket subtlety with similar shades to make the ensemble appear more wholesome.

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An evident grey theme is present, with a grey houndstooth wool-linen trouser and bold light grey windowpane jacket. A Palewave look can take some time to experiment with,  but what better season to do so than Summer.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

 

SuitSupply’s New Womens Wear Line Is Simply Amazing

SuitSupply just released launched their women’s wear line, SuiStudio, and it is… PHENOMENAL!

Of course, this is from the perspective of a male but I geniunely like their collection. What initially comes to mind, at least from the catalogue photos, are softly tailored garments in neutral colours, interesting textures and a pronounced silhouette.

The suit model that particularly caught my attention was the Cameron Double Breasted. It is rather aggressive with it’s detailing, wide lapels and brass buttons, but it’s sharp taper allows the suit to exude a sense of femininity without appearing like a “boyfriend” suit. From my understanding/experience, it is rather challenging to find the optimal balance on a double breasted jacket to accommodate a female’s chest. But, the suits seem to drape extremely well on the female models, especially around the chest.

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Their Palermo model, whose jacket is characterized by it’s wide peak lapels and single breasted closure, is also just as flattering. Additionally, you have the potentiality of purchasing the matching “Shorts” version, perfect for more casual work settings, or the “Skirt” iteration to retain it’s formality.

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SuiStudio also offers outerwear, which are very minimalistic in design, and evening wear. The latter is styled incredibly sensual with garments such as a low cut cleavage revealing top. I think such a pairing is very sexy/attractive and does not appear too provocative.

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Like their menswear line, they use fabrics from recognizable mills (Ferla, VBC, Solbiati etc.) but their products are still Made in China. If it’s any consolation, SuitSupply’s prices are still worth every penny and I do not expect any inferior manufacturing with SuiStudio.

Unfortunately, e-commerce is currently only available in Europe and the US. However, with SuitSupply’s accelerated global growth, I wouldn’t be surprise to see a worldwide e-commerce open within the next few months.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Neapolitan Jacketing

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After acquiring one, I can finally comprehend the hype that is Eidos Napoli. The brand makes a true Neapolitan jacket that is accessible to the younger folks.

This beautiful gun club with a faint rust overcheck jacket is in Eidos’s most popular model, Ciro, that features:

  • Wider lapels
  • A fish mouth opening between the lapel and collar
  • Spalla Camicia (Pleated Shoulders)
  • Barchetta Chest Pocket
  • 3/2 Roll
  • Lowered button stance
  • Substantially open quarters
  • No Shoulder padding

This jacket is one of the most comfortable jackets I have ever put on. It feels more like a shirt, akin to a second skin, as opposed to a jacket. The fabric, a wool-cashmere blend, drapes ridiculously well and is light enough to be worn for three seasons, Fall, Winter and Spring.

The brown base hue makes it easy to pair with a variety of colours and garments. A few pairings in mind that I am particularly excited to attempt are grey flannel trousers, white shirt and a brown knitted tie, a cream turtleneck with brown corduroys, or something as simple as jeans with an oxford shirt. Unfortunately, such experimenting would have to wait till the temperatures drop again. Well, here’s to looking forward to the colder months.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

Sundays

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Jacket: N/A \ Cargo Pants: Dockers \ Shirt: Spier & Mackay \ Double Breasted Waistcoat: IndoChino \ Tie: Brooks Brothers \ Suede Tassels: J Crew

This week’s Sundays post features a casual military inspired look. Featuring cargo khakis for extra pockets, a double breasted windowpane waistcoat, regimental stripe tie and a leather bomber jacket to combat the night chills.

How To Wear A Grey Suit Jacket

The foundation of any men’s wardrobe should consist of a navy and grey workhorse suit. The best thing about said suits is the ability to break them up into separates and create multiple combinations. However, navy suit jackets are a lot easier to wear separately compared to it’s grey counterpart. This ties in with a reader message I received recently, asking what to wear his grey suit jacket with as he found it difficult pairing it with other trousers.

If the grey is worsted or possesses a prominent sheen, I will exclusively wear it with it’s matching trousers. However I am also aware that not many of us possess a vast wardrobe and have to work with what we currently have. The evident problem with wearing grey suit jackets separately is that it often appears like you are wearing an orphan jacket – a jacket that was clearly meant to be worn with matching trousers. To avoid that, ensure that your grey suit already has blue-ish hues. What this implies is that the fabric should look a little blue under strong lightning and noticeable grey indoors. As you scroll down, the photos will further exemplify this.

When it comes to pairing any odd jacket, an option to always consider is textured grey trousers, like flannel, hopsack or wool, as they go with nearly everything. But they can often be a little repetitive and difficult to find, particularly grey hopsack. So to answer the reader’s question and to implement some creativity, here are three trouser combinations to effectively style your grey suit jacket without making it appear like you spilled Latte all over your matching trousers.

Cream Trousers

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Cream trousers go well with almost anything and is often overlooked as a viable choice. I feel that most men are afraid of it as it’s too light in colour and may appear too outlandish. But in actuality, it’s incredibly easy to pair. It creates a strong enough contrast with most jackets, especially darker ones, making it the cornerstone for every man’s trouser wardrobe.

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This blue-ish grey jacket has a 3 roll 2 and spalla camicia (pleated shoulders), features that I include in most of my recent commissions. A pleated shoulder adds additional mobility and makes it feel more like a shirt than a jacket. This jacket, from a distance, looks grey, however, closer photos reveals its blue-ish tone that makes it easier to pair with separates.

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A denim band collar shirt can also be used to dress down the jacket. However, if you were to approach the pairing of a grey jacket and cream trousers with more formality, I would instead opt for a light blue shirt and tie.

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Unusual Suspect: Denim Trousers

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These trousers are one of my wardrobe favourites because they are not as casual as denim nor are they too formal. They tread in-between the lines of formality, which is very similar to my philosophy of remaining casually tailored.

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Even though this suit jacket is a little sheeny, the texture of the trousers blends nicely with the jacket, making it appear less like a dreaded orphan jacket. Texture is key gents.

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The navy bengal stripe shirt adds a pleasing subtle interest in the ensemble. However, to avoid overpowering it, a simple (and essential) navy knitted tie was used to, literally, tie everything together.

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Or Just Denim Jeans

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Denim trousers are quite a rarity and are mostly only accessible through bespoke or made to measure offerings. However, an alternative to consider are your good old jeans. With that said, I would be cautious with this pairing and completely avoid it if your suit jacket is completely grey or exceedingly sheeny.

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The blue-ish hues from this jacket really comes into play here by exhibiting a tonal blue shade that can be quite appealing when done appropriately. Notice here that a white shirt, blue dotted tie and blue pocket square was used. Again, attributing to the blue that is uniformly present in the ensemble.

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Monk straps are an ideal choice to pair with jeans. They are casual enough and you wouldn’t run into the problem of experiencing a large formality disparity, like an oxford shoe usually does.

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Again, always remember though, a suit jacket looks the best with it’s matching trousers. And if none of these looks interest you enough, you can always fall back on a pair of grey hopsack (Summer) or flannel (Winter) trousers.

Thanks for reading, cheers.

 

Sundays

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Jacket: Barbour \ Charcoal Scoop Neck: H&M \ Windowpane Flannel Trousers: Gap x GQ \ Boots: Johnston & Murphy

Another instalment of the Sundays series, embodying simplicity with a waxed jacket, flannel trousers and well-worn boots. This is likely the last weekend to be able to wear Fall/Winter pieces. Here’s to warmer weather!

Thanks for reading, cheers.